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Mid 2010 Model A1278 / 2.4 or 2.66 GHz Core 2 Duo processor

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Power button doesn't work logic board damaged.

I bought this MacBook Pro some years ago. It was used and I had never opened it. Yesterday it stopped working, I noticed the power button just wasn't working.

I took the bottom cover off and I noticed that there were a little cable between the power pads test point on the logic board and the power button.

Now I have a bad situation, one of the pads on the logic board has been pulled off (the green one of the picture attached), it doesn't exist anymore. Is there is an alternative point that I can use to turn my system on?

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Update (01/16/2017)

I've made a mistake posting the first pic. it was just an example pic.

Those are the real pics. in the first one you can see the yellow cable solder to the pad.

In the second one you can see the pad missing. The keyboard works perfect it was not a problem of the key because with the yellow cable soldered it worked for more than 3 years.

After i don't know what happened and it stopped to work. I never knew that there were this modify because until saturday i never opened the macbook. Someone before me made this modify.

Pics:

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Original Situation: http://it.tinypic.com/r/mc8zed/9

Block Image

Actual situation without the pad: http://it.tinypic.com/r/35iacyh/9

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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Why was this patched up? What was the problem from the start?

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The macbook wasn't turning on. With this patch it was turning on with the own power button. Because of that i'm 100%sure the power button was working

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Altouth that was a jumper fix to the power button that got the job done for the time it held, that is one nasty solder job! What's up with that thick cable?! and it burned the cable flap! geez! I know it's been years but theres probably a workarround to that pad, but take it to someone who can actually solder jumper cables that are like hairline thick!

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The pad you have highlighted is for SMC_ONOFF_L. If this is missing, it will not prevent the Macbook from booting, since this is just a test point.

Measure the voltage of the 5th pin from the left on the keyboard connector, measuring whilst pressing the power button. If the voltage temporarily drops to under 1V, the Macbook is recognising the power button being pressed, and you have a different issue.

Where was this wire you saw going? Could you add an image illustrating this?

EDIT: Thanks for adding the image, really shoddy work the previous repairer has done to this. It is difficult to see, but it looks like C5710 and R5710 are missing, and they bridged both pins of R5710 together (one side is SMC_RESET_L, the other is WS_KBD_ONOFF_L, for the power button). Assuming they have done this since SMC_RESET_L is not making it from R5710 to where it needs to go, or because they couldn't be bothered to get a resistor (was 1k resistor though, so not sure why they have done this).

Desolder the wire, solder a new R5710 (1K, 5%, 1/16w 0402 resistor) and C5710 (0.1uf, 20%, 10V, 0402 capacitor). Grab a board view file for 820-2879 (Google), search for the references to find out where they go on the board.

Check continuity from pin 1 of C5710 and R5710 to pin 7 of U5010. Also check continuity from pin 2 of R5710 to pin 5 of the keyboard connector. If it doesn't get continuity on either of these, or the solder pads are missing, run a (good) wire between the 2 points.

If this sounds out of your depth, send it somewhere for repair. The fact that the test pad has come off is no problem, this signal can be taken from other places on the board.

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Yes, it's a very messy job but I think there is another shoe to drop here ;-{

There was some reason this was patched together. Before addressing the repairs to get it back to the way it should be it would be wise knowing what proceeded this.

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@danj yes it would be ideal to know why this has been done before, but I don't think OP will be able to find out (bought a couple of years ago used).

From looking at what they have done, I would assume either a trace/pad was burnt from R5710 for SMC_RESET_L, or these components were knocked off, so they bridged R5710 and run a wire for SMC_RESET_L.

It would be good to get some more info though :)

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Try replacing just the keyboard. here's how: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Keyboard Replacement

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There are two possible solutions here:

  • Send the logic board out to be fixed. Someone with good board repair skills should be able to patch in a new pad. But that doesn't fix the root problem.
  • Replace the upper case or if you can replace the keyboard subassembly so the power button is fixed correctly.

Here's a good video that shows what will be needed to fix the logic board: PCB solder pad repair & corrosion clean up - The epoxy method

To fix the real issue here I would replace the uppercase. Here's the IFIXIT guide: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 Upper Case Replacement and here is the needed part: MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2009/Mid 2010) Upper Case. You can find the needed keyboard subassembly online and after removing the upper case dig a bit deeper replacing the keyboard its self.

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2009-Mid 2010) Upper Case Afbeelding

Product

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2009-Mid 2010) Upper Case

$49.99

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4 opmerkingen:

Your reply it is not what i was searching for. I know how to solder and how to fix the MacBook just the pad signed in green doesn't exist anymore. So is there is an alternative one or nobody can fix the board.

I won't be buying the upper cover because the original button was working perfectly. So my asking is only if there is an alternative pad of the "green marked" of the pics.

Any good reply will be apreciated.

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Did you see how he created a new set of pads for the cap in the video? Thats what you'll need to do here. From your image there appears to be just enough of a trace left to patch in a pad. The alternate solution if that were to fail would to review the schematics and trace back were the signal goes hopefully you could pick it up somewhere else on the logic board.

Remember! These pads (Power Pads) are for testing not running the system! The fact you where bypassing the uppercases power button implied to me the switch was bad. There is no technical reason to fix the pad if the external power switch is working.

As to fixing the logic board, I have someone where I live who could do this quite easily (I don't do this anymore as I have arthritis and my vision is not as good as it once was).

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Can't you just short the pad that is still there to ground? Looks like the missing one is just ground.

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@gigabit87898 - I don't have an open system to double check which side is ground, I'm home watching football ;-} Hopefully the ground pad is damaged which makes this an easier repair. But the issue remains why is he bypassing the power button there is no need to.

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Salvatore Buonomo zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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