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Why Can't I Stop the Frost Formation?

We have a GE Monogram Refrigerator ZISB480DRD, which we have had about 12 years. In the last month or so, we started getting build-up of frost inside the freezer around the ice dispenser chute and the bottom of the ice cube compartment.

Based on some other input we have seen on-line, I replaced the rubber flapper on the ice dispenser, as well as the solenoid (which was distinctly corroded). Thought our problem was solved -- but noooooo....

The ice shows up initially as a snow-cone-like consistency around the chute opening, and progresses within the week to hard ice. I have melted it several times - twice since the parts replacement, and it appears that time and hope will not resolve it.

Any ideas?

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The fan motor in the freezer may not be running. Some times if the refrigerator is not level ice will build up and stop the fan from running. Try turning it off and leave the doors open for several hours. Give time to melt the ice. If the fan is working you should be able to hear it run. When you turn it off and open the doors the melted frost will run down the inside back center part of the fridge. Check every once in a while to make sure it doesn't overflow and run on the floor. I hope this helps you . Good luck!

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Thank you, John, for your helpful insights. At one point (a couple days ago), I think that the freezer door did not close enough, and it actually got up to 21°F in the freezer. Once we closed it, it seemed to start defrosting! Methinks that it may indeed have something to do with what you wrote (as well as the fellow below, Mayer). I am hoping that I can accept both answers!

door

If the door is not closing all the way, It could be caused by bad door gasket the door may need to be adjusted. Check the gasket around the freezer door for cracks or damage. Open the door halfway or so. When you let it go it should swing shut by its self and seal tightly. Also look at door to see if it is lower on one side than the other. Are you able to see any gaps between the door and the refrigerator. If so the door may need to be adjusted. Let me know what you find. In the meantime, I will see if I can find any good links on how to do these things. I hope this helps.

door

Dr. John -- the door does not shut by itself when half-opened. The alignment looks good (per my Craftsman level), as does the condition of the seal (with respect to cracks, etc.). It may have lost some magnetism, though. Part of the problem is it not closing firmly enough, either when there is too much stuff there (rare), or when the refrigerator door closes: the compressing air forces the freezer door open without it re-closing. If we are sensitive to it happening, we lean into the door when closing to make sure that it is shut -- not too arduous a task, but a bit of a nuisance....

door

This is probably why you are building up frost and ice. It is good it is level but the door still needs to be adjusted. Does your fridge have freezer on the top and fresh food compartment on the bottom? Give over night and I will try to remember how to adjust it. It has been a while. It is has been a while since I have done one. I retired from maintenance 6 years ago. If you are able to get it to work properly, you will probably save some on your electric bill.

door

John -- no, it's a side-by-side. If you see (or remember) something, I certainly will appreciate it (always eager to lower those bills!).

door

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Most Frequent Causes for Refrigerator not defrosting

Cause 1

Defrost Control Board

The defrost control board determines how often to run the defrost cycle. If the board fails, the refrigerator will not go into the defrost cycle. Before replacing the defrost control board, first test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. If the defrost heater and defrost thermostat are working properly, the defrost control board is likely defective.

Cause 2

Defrost Timer

The defrost timer turns on the defrost heater several times throughout the day to melt any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost timer is defective, it may not advance into the defrost cycle, or it may not send power to the defrost heater during the defrost cycle. To determine if the defrost timer is defective, slowly advance the dial into the defrost cycle. The compressor should turn off and the heater should turn on. If the timer does not send power to the defrost components or advance out of the defrost cycle within 30 minutes, this indicates that the defrost timer is not advancing. If the defrost timer is not advancing, replace it.

Cause 3

Defrost Heater Assembly

The defrost heater assembly turns on several times throughout the day to melt away any frost that may have accumulated on the evaporator coils. If the defrost heater assembly is defective, the defrost system will not work, and frost will continue to accumulate on the evaporator coils. To determine if the defrost heater is defective, use a multimeter to test it for continuity. If the defrost heater does not have continuity, replace it.

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Thank you also, Mayer, for your helpful insights. As I wrote above to John, a couple days ago, I think that the freezer door did not close enough, and it actually got up to 21°F in the freezer. Once we closed it, it seemed to start defrosting! Methinks that it may indeed have something to do with what you wrote (as well as John). I am hoping that I can accept both answers!

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Here is a link for a video that shows you how to align your refrigerator doors. It is not bad to adjust. I hope this will solve the problem. It is the 1st video on the left about halfway down the page. (it is about 1 minute 26 seconds). It is a Side bye side.

https://us.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?h...

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For others with a similar issue who plan on replacing the flapper. An easy fix for most....

When replacing the flapper, also replace the little spring as well. With the concentration of ice around the chute, I am inclined to believe the issue is still with the flapper assembly. Is it possible you installed is incorrectly? If everything isn't snapped into place properly, there will be a slight gap. Thus allowing moisture in. If this is the case the ice in the bin would be melting and refreezing as well. You'll see ice crystals and clumps of ice. Thiscan also cause was to migrate from the ice bin to the auger. My auger froze a few times until I found the issue. It's a cheap and easy fix for any homeowner. Then I mistakenly removed some foam from around the ice chute thinking it was just residue when I replace my flapper, spring, and the magnetic solenoid. This caused my issue to get worse as the foam was added because the hole was not lined up properly with the flapper. Do remove anything as I mistakenly did.

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