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Green on light is blinking, but no picture

The Sharp LCD TV LC37SB24U set worked until off button on remote turned off the picture, but not the green "on" light. I un-pluged and re-pluged in the set with no result. The green light is blinking any time power cord is plugged into the wall outlet.

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Is the blinking consistent or is it blinking in some kind of sequence?

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The green blinking is at a rate of ~60 per minute. I held the power and input button for 5 beats & the power light went to red. It stayed red until I pressed the power on from the remote. The light went to orange & after a few seconds the input screen appeared on the screen, but only for a short time. The blinking green light returned. I tried the same thing again & when the input appeared on the screen, I pressed the input button and there was a changed to the list of inputs. This was brief and then the screen went blank and the blinking green light was back.

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I tried just pushing the power button on the TV and got the same result, so the input is not necessary. I was able to change the input in the few seconds the set came on to a snowy screen, not quite full screen. The blinking green light is the same, except when I hold the power on button down for five blinks.

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It does sound like an inverter issue. See if the set goes into service mode. If it does it may indicate what has happened.

Unplug your set. Hold down VOL minus and the INPUT button at the set. Power up the set from the main, if it does not start immediately press the on/off switch while still holding down the buttons until (if it will) it comes on. If it does and you see a "k" in the corner then you should be in the service mode.

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You many need to take a look at the inside of your unit. It does sound like either a bad inverter board or a bad power supply. Check all the caps, there should also be a few fuses on the power board.

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smithron4, here is a look at your PSU with the fuses marked. Not an answer yet, but its the only way to post images.

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this is a look at one of the models of inverter board used for that model. not sure if this is the one your model has, but you can see the glass fuse

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okay this should be closer to the inverter that your TV is using.

Block Image

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14 opmerkingen:

Thanks, I will check those two fuses. They do not look our typical fuses. Will a substitute fuse just as well?

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Will it look like the once you have on the board? Yes, check the markings on the top of the fuse if you need to replace those. Check them with a multimeter for continuity. Also, check all of your caps, especially on the inverter.

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There are disk type capacitors and electrolytic capacitors, which give the most trouble? What is the common method to determine "good or bad" on these components?

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The electrolytic ones are usually the ones the go on the fritz, Checked for bulging tops and of course leaky electrolyte. To check it you would usually need at least a capacitance meter.

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I have inspected both boards thoroughly and found no visible defects. There are 6 electrolytes on the inverter and 12 on the power supply. None of the capacitors show leaking or bulging. All but the very small cases have been incised to give any internal pressure a direction. All components show no signs of overheating. On the clad side there is no connections or ribbons that indicate hard current draw or heating. Likewise components on heat-sinks appear normal without signs of high heating. Resistors, relays, ICs, chokes/transformers, all appear normal, without signs of heating.

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Use an ESR cap meter to check the Electrolytic s in the Power Supply, some cap meters will pass bad Capacitors , the reason why some cap meters will pass a bad cap as good they can not read the Equivalent series Resistance do this before replacing any fuses .

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Thank you for your response!

I have not found an ESR cap meter I want, but I am looking for capacitors. How close to the voltage and uf values do you have to use for replacements. I am sure volts should be over, if the original is 25 volts, would 35 volts be ok?

With regard to uf , if the original is 150 uf would 200 uf be ok?

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Does IFix have a source for capacitors?

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smithron, yes you can go over. Never under. ifixit does not have those components. Try some of the bigger places like Mouser or Digikey, but that is personal preference

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Thank you for your reply. I will call tomorrow, one or both places.

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Replaced power board entirely,brand new board,And still same issue flashing power light no power to the screen. Any ideas

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Umiinit po yung diode may marka po kasi ng sunog yung kinalalagyan ng diode kukurapkurap yung light geen walang picture walang sound

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2 opmerkingen:

Ayus naman ang puse ayus nman ang capacitor

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Ayus nman capacitor at diode

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smithron4 zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.
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