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The wi-fi only version of Apple's iPad Air, model number A1474. Available in Space Gray or Silver, it packs the custom A7 processor and ships in 16, 32, 64, and 128 GB configurations.

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Dead spot after digitizer replacement?

Hi everyone,

i recently smashed my IPad Air's front screen and tried to do the replacement by myself following your guide.

After fitting everything back together I was excited to see that it seemed to work again.

It took me a while to realize that I now have a dead spot of about a square inch in the top left corner of the screen. The screen doesn't respond to touch in that area.

All the other parts of the screen are working perfectly fine.

What are the chances that disassembling and reconnecting the digitizer fixes the problem? Or is a problem like this usually an indication for a defective digitizer?

Thank you for your help.

Beantwoord! Bekijk het antwoord Dit probleem heb ik ook

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Bonnie et al - Did you folks reach conclusion?

We have dead spot after battery replacement on 1474.. were VERY careful, gentle, and methodical.

I am pretty sure we “folded in” the ribbon cables correctly.



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I don't remember for sure, but I think that what solved the problem for me was replacing the digitizer with a new one from a seller that I trust. I am not sure why my digitizer worked beautifully at first and then failed. Possibilities include small rips, kinks, or slightly bad/dirty connection points at the end of the cable. Or slightly incomplete insertion into a connector. This last is worth checking: open the latches on both connectors, carefully push the cable in with tweezers as far as it can go, and close the latches.

In my case, possibly there was damage to the cable that was only revealed when the assembly was tightly closed.

I think that I did insulate the edges of the digitizer with Kapton tape, as has been suggested elsewhere, and that did not help in my case.

Another possibility if it is not the digitizer, is that one of the connectors is faulty. If you have a microscope or even magnifying glass, inspect the solder joints between each pin and pad, making sure that they look good and have the classic "ski slope" form of a good joint.

If you have a multimeter, you can also test continuity between each pad and the corresponding pin. Look not only for continuity, but also the absence of any bridges: each pad should be continuous with its pin and its pin only.

If you have ZXW and know which pins should be ground, you can test that as well. If you are fortunate enough to have a chart of what the diode readings should be for each pin (or a "known good" with which to compare) you can also test the diode reading of each pin.

To my knowledge and in my experience, dead spots are unlikely to be caused by damage to the backlight circuit. Backlight damage is usually reflected by either a half dim screen or one that is completely blank.

In sum, I think you are left with the digitizer itself (damage to the cable, incomplete insertion into a connector, or lack of insulation around the edges) or with one or both of the digitizer connectors on the motherboard.

Good luck!

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I gotta say that Bonnie gave a very well composed and I'm pretty darn sure technically correct answer.

VERY detail oriented Communicator.

Thank you Bonnie for taking the time . Marc


Thanks, Marc!


loose connections. i fixed my iPhone with dead spot where i can't type y u g h v b 7 8. i reopened it and reconnected the ribbon connectors for the digitizer and the lcd and it fixed the problem.


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Sounds like you have a bad digitizer or you damaged the cable. To fix the problem you will need to install a new digitizer.

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I agree w/ one of the other posters. You probably had a bad digitizer on this, unless of course, one of the input connectors for the digitizer got damaged during the teardown, when you were removing the old digitizer connectors. If that's the case, soldering a new connector (whichever is broken) onto the board will work, but those are hard to find, and that's a particularly hard job to do.

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I have a similar issue after digitizer replacement. When the screen/iPad gets hot (i.e. after gaming use especially), the top and bottom of the iPad, about an inch or so, become very difficult to press. If I hold the iPad in hands though and squeeze slightly, (pressing left and right edges toward each other slightly as I type with thumbs in landscape mode) I can get it to press the Q A Z and "ABC" buttons. It's inconsistent, but It seems that re-seating the digitizer, it sometimes fixes it temporarily. In home button to left configuration, the issue is with the four left most buttons, backspace, right shift, Hide keyboard. It's just the left nd right inch while In landscape mode. Also note I expect it's the same while in portrait mode but in that configuration it would be the top and bottom inch of the tablet that do not work) The sides of the tablet, aside from the corners, (the top and bottom while In landscape mode) work great.

Just to be crystal clear, the issue is ONLY one inch below the front facing camera, and one inch above the home button, and only SOMETIMES, but heat seems to cause it to worsen substantially. What's even more odd, is turning screen on and off for a second seems to cause some sort of recalibration and it will function fine for a moment before acting up again. Does this point to the digitizer, an electrical short somewhere ( I know electrical short cases ghosting, which was issue with my first replacement digitizer), or something else?

I am very knowledgable about tablets and electronics in general, and have replaced a dozen screens on iPads alone, But this has me stumped. Who has knowledge of the internal workings of the calibration of the screen? Clearly cycling the power on the LCd by tapping power to lock it causes some sort of calibration to take place. Anyone who is an expert on the iPad air (a1475) with thoughts here? I've got tons of theories, but need something I can confirm using the scientific method, not "replace the digitizer again and hope" responses. Any educated hunches here are appreciated.

Finally, Sorry for hijacking the question, but this is the thread that came up when I searched for my problem specifically, so I assume others will find this page also that are experiencing the same issue.



Product Specifications:

-A1475 revision 1

-JB via pangu 8.1.2 (too lazy to go to ios9 right now)

-Tablet is out of warranty due to time since purchased.

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This sort of thing just happened to me on an iPad 4 digitizer swap. I know the digitizer worked beautifully—right up

until the final reassembly. I tested it numerous times by dragging an icon all over the screen. And it was removed from a well-working iPad (that was on someone else’s account whom I can’t reach, so its usefulness was limited.) The digitizer worked well before removal, after motherboard swap…everything except the final step of sealing it up.

I took it back apart and re-seated the cable, but no good.

So I’m very interested to

any answers to Michael’s question, or the original. The most likely thing I can come up with is a very slightly damaged cable. I’ll test it with the broken glass digitizer next, if I can do so safely. It’s taped together and essentially intact. For that matter, I can also test it in the other iPad, to see whether I’ve caused a digitizer or motherboard problem…

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Its a bad quality digitizer buy this one iPad Air Screen Digitizer and thats the answer to your problem.

iPad Air Screen Digitizer Afbeelding


iPad Air Screen Digitizer


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You linked an LCD instead of the digitizer...


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Nicolas zal eeuwig dankbaar zijn.

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