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'''F02 Error Code HE3 Elite Washer'''
'''Solutions to the F 02 error code that’s not in the manual and missed by most tech’s.'''
'''Don’t replace''' '''anything''' until you do '''these 3 things'''.
Performing these steps, will '''most of the time''' correct the fault causing the F 02 error code. Most technicians and help videos suggest '''replacing the pump after''' checking for kinked or blocked hoses and cleaning the '''LIF(L'''arge '''I'''tem '''F'''ilter''')'''. More times than not, it’s '''$150.00''' for a new pump that didn’t correct the problem.
I’ve done a lot of searching and digging to solve my F 02 error, and '''I have found''' what most people, even Technicians, miss. I’m sharing my findings for no gain other than knowing this is going to help someone, (hopefully you).
Sorta legal stuff here, some of it might be good for a chuckle though (what I outline here is not a step by step, every step detailed to its max for dummies procedure manual). I offer it for competent, knowledgeable people who understand there is risk of injury involved while blah blah blah… I assume no liability for anything or anyone, and no responsibility for anything, damages or Acts of GOD or anything resulting from, too, or as a result of whether imagined or real, before, while, or after attempting to apply what I describe here. The following information is for educational purposes only.
At the bottom, I’ve included a video (not mine), that has some useful information and good visuals of the items I’ve mentioned here.
Tools needed (and a few suggestions to make this easier).
-# T10 & T20 Torx bits. or a 7mm nut driver (fit all my screws)
+# T10 & T20 Torx bits. or a 9/32 nut driver (fit all my screws)
# An electric screwdriver (a Dewalt) helpful but not an absolute must, a hand driver will work.
# Good pair of slip-joint pliers.
# Rubber gloves.
# A few cotton swabs.
# A couple of large towels. There is going to be some water present when you make some disconnections.
# A shallow plastic container that can hold a couple of gallons of water.
# Large disposable Pie Tin.
# '''I'''n'''side''' '''the''' '''cabinet''', stuck to the side, is a manual for your particular machine (unless someone has removed it). It has useful information. It describes procedures related to running diagnostic checks to the electronics of the machine, and other useful information. You’ll see it once the front or back cover is removed. Both covers will need to be removed to perform the following steps.
# '''Let’s get started'''.
-
# '''1st, unplug the power cord'''.
# Remove the 3 screws from the front panel, there at the bottom, then remove the panel by pulling on it ( a nylon spatula works well to aid in popping it out).
# You’ll see the '''pump assembly''' with a '''round cap'''. That’s the '''LIF,''' (Large Item Filter) and it turns counterclockwise to remove. The '''Water In The Tub WILL DRAIN''' when you remove the '''LIF'''. Clean the '''LIF''' and inside the housing where it goes. Reinstall it.
# Next, we need to access the back of the washer. If the hoses are long enough to allow pulling the washer out far enough to get behind it, you can leave them connected (for these maintenance steps).
# The rear panel removes by removing a handful of screws. Removing the Top of the machine is '''NOT NECESSARY,''' but you will need to remove the two screws holding the top of the rear panel that slides under the top cover (it’s easier than it sounds). There is a screw on each side that '''do not''' need to be removed as you can see the cutout around them. '''Remove the screws in the center''' of the panel.
# At the very bottom of the tub is a black accordion-like, drain hose that goes from the bottom of the tub to the pump. Using slip joint pliers, at the bottom of the tub, release the clamp and let it slide down the hose. Water will drain when the hose is removed, Rubber gloves, the shallow plastic container, and towels are used here.
# Removing the hose from the pump is not necessary, but it can be cleaned better if removed. I left mine attached to the pump. Clean the inside of the hose that connects to the drum. There’s a plastic ball ('''Eco-Ball''') inside the hose. '''This ball must not have any water inside of it'''. If it does, replace it, since if something gets stuck there, this can wear a hole in the ball.
# Clean the area around the ball thoroughly. There is a '''Bypass Hole''' that should be unobstructed. I used the cotton swabs to clean the groove in the hose that attaches to the tub. You can roll the bottom of it back under to help drain any remaining grit out of the groove.
# '''Clean inside the bottom of the drum'''. Reach your fingers up inside it and feel for anything (gunk). Clean the mating surface where the hose connects. Once everything is cleaned, slip the hose back on and secure it with the spring clamp (holding the clamp up as high as it will go, using the pliers to squeeze it and work it up in steps). '''Verify the clamp is installed correctly'''.
# (Still working in the back) At the bottom edge of the drum is the '''Water-Level Pressure Switch Air Trap'''. ('''W-LPSAT''')This has a 1/4 “ black hose connected to it that goes up the cabinet’s left side to the pressure switch, & a couple of green wires attached/wrapped around it.
# '''Correct wire routing must be maintained'''. Taking a picture or 2 can be helpful here.
-
# The '''W-LPSAT is''' held on with one screw at the bottom (T10) and a tab to release the ('''W-LPSAT'''). Remove the Torx screw (you might have to lay on the floor to see the tab). Release it and gently pull it out (a little water will be there) and unhook the wires and hose. Clean the '''W-LPSAT''' thoroughly and reinstall '''Paying attention to correct wire routing'''.
# CAUTION DON’T BLOW into the switch! you can rupture the rubber diaphragm.
# GENTLY puffing/blowing into the rubber hose that goes up to the pressure switch, you should be able to hear the switch making and breaking contact. The switch should hold light pressure also.
# I test ran the unit. A full wash cycle completed successfully without any errors. I then installed the panels.
# Good Video(not mine) visual of the '''W-LPSAT tab''' and other good stuff. I didn’t see anything I haven’t covered —-> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCaHsu8RR64
-
# '''IF''' this solved your F 02, I know your days looking brighter, help someone else enjoy a better day…Give a thumbs up or a '''YES- IF''' this solved your F 02— and to help this article rise in the ranks of search returns, so it can help other peeps in need :)
signed by——> Nobudyin Particular

Status:

open

Origineel bericht door: Nobodyin Particular

Tekst:

'''F02 Error Code HE3 Elite Washer'''

'''Solutions to the F 02 error code that’s not in the manual and missed by most tech’s.'''

'''Don’t replace''' '''anything''' until you do '''these 3 things'''.

Performing these steps, will '''most of the time''' correct the fault causing the F 02 error code. Most technicians and help videos suggest '''replacing the pump after''' checking for kinked or blocked hoses and cleaning the '''LIF(L'''arge '''I'''tem '''F'''ilter''')'''.  More times than not, it’s '''$150.00''' for a new pump that didn’t correct the problem.

I’ve done a lot of searching and digging to solve my F 02 error, and '''I have found''' what most people, even Technicians, miss.  I’m sharing my findings for no gain other than knowing this is going to help someone, (hopefully you).

Sorta legal stuff here, some of it might be good for a chuckle though (what I outline here is not a step by step, every step detailed to its max for dummies procedure manual).  I offer it for competent, knowledgeable people who understand there is risk of injury involved while blah blah blah… I assume no liability for anything or anyone, and no responsibility for anything, damages or Acts of GOD or anything resulting from, too, or as a result of whether imagined or real, before, while, or after attempting to apply what I describe here.  The following information is for educational purposes only.

At the bottom, I’ve included a video (not mine), that has some useful information and good visuals of the items I’ve mentioned here.

Tools needed (and a few suggestions to make this easier).

#  T10 & T20 Torx bits.  or a 7mm nut driver (fit all my screws)

#  An electric screwdriver (a  Dewalt) helpful but not an absolute must, a hand driver will work.

#  Good pair of slip-joint pliers.

#  Rubber gloves.

#  A few cotton swabs.

#  A couple of large towels. There is going to be some water present when you make some disconnections.

#  A shallow plastic container that can hold a couple of gallons of water.

#  Large disposable Pie Tin.

# '''I'''n'''side''' '''the''' '''cabinet''', stuck to the side, is a manual for your particular machine (unless someone has removed it).  It has useful information. It describes procedures related to running diagnostic checks to the electronics of the machine, and other useful information.  You’ll see it once the front or back cover is removed. Both covers will need to be removed to perform the following steps.
# '''Let’s get started'''.

#  '''1st, unplug the power cord'''.

# Remove the 3 screws from the front panel, there at the bottom, then remove the panel by pulling on it ( a nylon spatula works well to aid in popping it out).
# You’ll see the '''pump assembly''' with a '''round cap'''.  That’s the '''LIF,''' (Large Item Filter) and it turns counterclockwise to remove. The '''Water In The Tub WILL DRAIN'''  when you remove the '''LIF'''. Clean the '''LIF''' and inside the housing where it goes. Reinstall it.
# Next, we need to access the back of the washer. If the hoses are long enough to allow pulling the washer out far enough to get behind it, you can leave them connected (for these maintenance steps).
# The rear panel removes by removing a handful of screws.  Removing the Top of the machine is '''NOT NECESSARY,''' but you will need to remove the two screws holding the top of the rear panel that slides under the top cover (it’s easier than it sounds).  There is a screw on each side that '''do not''' need to be removed as you can see the cutout around them.  '''Remove the screws in the center''' of the panel.
# At the very bottom of the tub is a black accordion-like, drain hose that goes from the bottom of the tub to the pump.  Using slip joint pliers, at the bottom of the tub, release the clamp and let it slide down the hose. Water will drain when the hose is removed, Rubber gloves, the shallow plastic container, and towels are used here.
# Removing the hose from the pump is not necessary, but it can be cleaned better if removed. I left mine attached to the pump. Clean the inside of the hose that connects to the drum. There’s a plastic ball ('''Eco-Ball''') inside the hose. '''This ball must not have any water inside of it'''. If it does, replace it, since if something gets stuck there, this can wear a hole in the ball.
# Clean the area around the ball thoroughly. There is a '''Bypass Hole''' that should be unobstructed. I used the cotton swabs to clean the groove in the hose that attaches to the tub. You can roll the bottom of it back under to help drain any remaining grit out of the groove.
# '''Clean inside the bottom of the drum'''. Reach your fingers up inside it and feel for anything (gunk). Clean the mating surface where the hose connects. Once everything is cleaned, slip the hose back on and secure it with the spring clamp  (holding the clamp up as high as it will go, using the pliers to squeeze it and work it up in steps). '''Verify the clamp is installed correctly'''.
# (Still working in the back) At the bottom edge of the drum is the  '''Water-Level Pressure Switch Air Trap'''. ('''W-LPSAT''')This has a 1/4 “  black hose connected to it that goes up the cabinet’s left side to the pressure switch, &  a couple of green wires attached/wrapped around it.
# '''Correct wire routing must be maintained'''. Taking a picture or 2 can be helpful here.

#  The '''W-LPSAT is''' held on with one screw at the bottom (T10) and a tab to release the ('''W-LPSAT''').  Remove the Torx screw (you might have to lay on the floor to see the tab). Release it and gently pull it out (a little water will be there) and unhook the wires and hose. Clean the  '''W-LPSAT''' thoroughly and reinstall '''Paying attention to correct wire routing'''.

# CAUTION DON’T BLOW into the switch! you can rupture the rubber diaphragm.
# GENTLY puffing/blowing into the rubber hose that goes up to the pressure switch, you should be able to hear the switch making and breaking contact. The switch should hold light pressure also.
# I test ran the unit. A full wash cycle completed successfully without any errors. I then installed the panels.
# Good Video(not mine)  visual of the '''W-LPSAT tab''' and other good stuff. I didn’t see anything I haven’t covered —-> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tCaHsu8RR64

#  '''IF''' this solved your F 02, I know your days looking brighter, help someone else enjoy a better day…Give a thumbs up or a '''YES-  IF''' this solved your F 02— and to help this article rise in the ranks of search returns, so it can help other peeps in need :)

signed by——>  Nobudyin Particular

Status:

open