Origineel bericht door: Erik Gregg ,
For anyone tracking this megathread, I have a new unique solution to this issue that I haven’t seen ANYWHERE else. For the record, here were my symptoms: * Would fill with water just fine * Clicking noises would occur but circulation pump would never turn on * Would drain just fine and fill again, with no circulation pump running at all at any point * Upon opening, no spinning or spraying at all, lots of steam. * Randomly would work and not work, didn’t have any particular pattern * Seemed to work better after power was cut for a while as others have said. Never played the circuit breaker game, but did observe this from working on it repeatedly with the power off. Here were the solutions I tried: * Replaced the heating element after getting 7-1 the first time. New element has consistently ohmed right. * Replaced the control board. This changed my codes from 7-1, 7-2 consistently to just 6-4 or nothing at all when doing a full diagnostic run. * Replaced the circulation pump. Measured ohms in the megaohm territory between 120V terminals on both the old and new pump, and neither terminal shorted to ground on old or new. After that last repair, here’s what happened: * Ran diagnostic while I had the machine pulled out after installing new circulation pump. WORKED GREAT! * Pushed machine back in, cycle ran to completion, hooray. * About 8 hours later loaded washer again, started cycle, THE ISSUE CAME BACK WITH THE CLICKING! At wits end, I pulled the washer out. Again. During a cycle where it was in the click state, I pushed my AC voltmeter probe into the connector that goes into the circulation pump - see image. [image|2158581] IMMEDIATELY THE PUMP TURNED ON! The connector was very slightly LOOSE! Looking around I noticed that the metal water inlet hose was very close to that connector and would have potentially touched it when pushed back into the cabinet. I suspect the cause of it working intermittently was either the spark jumping the gap and jostling the connector just right to have it run for a cycle or something like that. The pump does lurch around a little when it kicks on since it’s just held there by a bunch of rubber grommets and such. Using some trusty duck tape, I tied it away from that area completely and used a little more duck tape to secure the connector in place a little better. Obviously this connector is extremely substandard and should have never been used for such a critical 120V circuit on this machine. If it happens again I’m soldering the terminals directly onto the wires because I’m so tired of this crap. Definitely give this a try if you’re having the clicking problem and the latch solutions get you nowhere!